"In the backyard of the [Royal Academy of Fine Arts] school was this little building, on the verge of collapsing. You would have to very carefully go over the stairs, because if you took one mis-step, you could literally push your feet through them. It was almost dangerous. So I think that the whole thing melted well together. It was the switch from the 80s to 90s, the reaction on excess with minimalism and deconstruction, the first appearance of grunge. So that feeling of romanticism, together with the history, the building and the run down corridors with the statues, it really did make a big impact on how you formed your visual language. I really think there was something quite dark and magical about it, matching perfectly the zeitgeist of the period."

— Willy Vanderperre
Martin Margiela autumn / winter 1998-99

"I saw dresses this morning in the farmyard at Rochecorbon where I am shooting. They were hanging in the sun, side by side, like Bluebeard’s wives, only lifeless. They lacked their souls, and the soul of a dress is a body."  — Jean Cocteau, Diary of a film
dress in the form of a paper grocery bag, black polyester crepe

Martin Margiela autumn / winter 1998-99

"I saw dresses this morning in the farmyard at Rochecorbon where I am shooting. They were hanging in the sun, side by side, like Bluebeard’s wives, only lifeless. They lacked their souls, and the soul of a dress is a body."  — Jean Cocteau, Diary of a film

dress in the form of a paper grocery bag, black polyester crepe


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