"In the backyard of the [Royal Academy of Fine Arts] school was this little building, on the verge of collapsing. You would have to very carefully go over the stairs, because if you took one mis-step, you could literally push your feet through them. It was almost dangerous. So I think that the whole thing melted well together. It was the switch from the 80s to 90s, the reaction on excess with minimalism and deconstruction, the first appearance of grunge. So that feeling of romanticism, together with the history, the building and the run down corridors with the statues, it really did make a big impact on how you formed your visual language. I really think there was something quite dark and magical about it, matching perfectly the zeitgeist of the period."

— Willy Vanderperre
Yohji Yamamoto fall / winter 1990-91
“Yamamoto’s clothes simply do not follow the shape of the body in any conventional manner” the New York Timesreported. “Whereas most clothes accentuate a natural verticality, Mr. Yamamoto’s seem almost horizontal.”
While the western world had already been exposed to Japanese fashion during the 1960s and the 1970s, the early designers such as Hanae Mori, Kenzo Takada and Kansai Yamamoto, proved adept at blending eastern elements of design with those already established by western fashion to produce an exotic but relatively tempered look. Characteristics such as layering, a loose voluminous fit, wide sleeves and the use of fine silks printed with nature motifs, were elements of traditional Japanese dress introduced to western fashion by these earlier designers.
scan from autumn / winter ‘90-‘91 catalog

Yohji Yamamoto fall / winter 1990-91

“Yamamoto’s clothes simply do not follow the shape of the body in any conventional manner” the New York Timesreported. “Whereas most clothes accentuate a natural verticality, Mr. Yamamoto’s seem almost horizontal.”

While the western world had already been exposed to Japanese fashion during the 1960s and the 1970s, the early designers such as Hanae Mori, Kenzo Takada and Kansai Yamamoto, proved adept at blending eastern elements of design with those already established by western fashion to produce an exotic but relatively tempered look. Characteristics such as layering, a loose voluminous fit, wide sleeves and the use of fine silks printed with nature motifs, were elements of traditional Japanese dress introduced to western fashion by these earlier designers.

scan from autumn / winter ‘90-‘91 catalog


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